Just for a change I’m going to put a bit of flavour around the place I’m staying. Flores is a small island settlement on the southern edge of a lake a don’t know the name of because I’m writing this without the benefit of WiFi. Anyway, it’s connected to the shore via a causeway and a very pretty village it is too. It’s mainland big brother, Santa Elena, is where you get stuff, it’s larger, more 'working town' Guatemala, and frankly grubbier. Flores you can explore every detail of it’s narrow lanes, tiny alleyways and shoreline promenade in about an hour and is where one stays if one is a backpacker. And it’s ALL about the backpackers here. Despite the surprising presence of a swanky Ramada hotel, you’ve got to really want to come here, or have to come here, to be here and stay in one of the many island hostels. There are only three types of businesses in Flores, bars, tourist booths selling bus tickets to Tikal, and hotels.
For the first time in this particular blog, and maybe the last, I’ll do a review of my current accommodation;
Availability 5 Tacos - head and shoulders more available than the other 13 hotels I tried.
WiFi 3 Tacos - a very creditable effort given this is the fucking Guatemalan jungle and a dirt cheap hostel to boot.
Outlook 1/4 Tacos - my room looks out on a rusty corrugated roofing sheet / the hostel is 20m from the gently lapping shore of the quite delightful Lake Whateveritis.
Price 4 Tacos - and frankly I’m doing the place down. Even in these parts, £10p.n. really is very cheap living.
Wildlife 4 Tacos - I looked but couldn’t find any sign of cockroaches, bedbugs, silverfish, or indeed cougars for that matter (I looked for those, twice, and their absence accounts for the markdown)
Comfort 3 Tacos - ok, so it isn’t a Hilton DoubleTree but the shower, astonishingly, was hot, the bed was clearly around when the Mayans ruled the place but I seemed to sleep well nonetheless, there wasn’t any aircon but a rickety ceiling fan did a better job than you’d imagine.
I mean, for the money, I was quite surprised. I’ve certainly stayed in worse, and paid more for the privilege.
I get why Flores is here and why people make the effort to get here. It is genuinely an oasis in the desert. ...well, jungle. It’s sooo laid back and non-threatening, geared towards budget travel, and a really nice beatnik spot. I’ve enjoyed Guatemala very much and no more so than the short time I’ve spent in Flores. My only real recommendation to those who come after me is to book ahead like I didn’t.
Crossing the causeway into Flores. Note the Ramada is the largest building on the island by a country mile and offers a first glance that suggests a touch of island grandeur. At second glance, one tends to reappraise. Doesn't stop it being pretty though.
I'm sure there are those who would suggest I took this to infer I am no longer short of company. As it happens, I was the perfect gentleman and just took loads of secret photos of them without interrupting their evening in the slightest. Who said chivalry was dead eh?
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